Down Into The Ground (The Ants Go Marching)

I left Tucson and headed east to Kartchner Cavern State Park. I had to back into my site and the job got done but I sure do need more practice. Kartchner is in the southeastern part of Arizona. It doesn't seem as rocky, there is actually knee high dry grass here which is more to my liking. The big draw here is …..drumroll.....the Kartchner Caverns. I did take a Cavern Tour and I have to say, it was probably one of the best caves I've been in. It wasn't all that large, but there were tons of formations. They were interesting to see, but I really liked the part of the talk about the bats. The type of bats that live in these Caverns are small bats. Two hundred of them can fit in a one foot square. Our tour guide was excellent also which really makes a difference. Normally, they have 15-20 people on the tour. Nowadays, they only have six people which makes a huge amount of difference in how the tour goes. Think of it, moving six people down the road goes a lot quicker than 20 people so you have more time to hear the ranger talk. Also, with the smaller group, you have more personal time with the ranger and it is easier to ask questions.

Miko and I hiked the Foothill Trail while we were at Katchner. Pleasant trail, not too strenuous. I brought along a bottle of water for Miko and me to share. I only brought one bottle because the trail was only a couple of miles and only rated moderate. I figured piece of cake. Well, what I didn't take into account was the fact that we were doing this right around noon. You know that time of day when the sun decides to look for things to fry. We weren't that far from the end of the trail, but I went into more of a survival mode. “Ok, Miko – this water has to last us. You can have one swallow. I will take one swallow. We can make it. No – you can't have more water, we have to make it last. “ Seriously, it wasn't that bad, but it is entertaining to play little games with yourself and your dog.

I now know what type of hiker I am. The first third of the hike I'm “oh man, I could be sleeping in, this is too far, why did I bother”. The second third I'm “oh wow, this is so cool, I could hike forever – look at everything I'm seeing.” The last third is “Are we there yet?”

The Camground

Jogger is moving in more and more.  

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Haven't had a sunset for a while

There is a place called Whitewater Draw Wildlife Management Area. It is the place where thousands and thousands of Sandhill Cranes winter between December and March. There are some early arrivals, perhaps several thousand of the birds there now. I decided that I was going to spend the night there, they have a little cul-de-sac where campers can park along the edge. It is sort of like circling the wagons around the porta-potties which are conveniently located in the center of the cul-de-sac. I wasn't expecting a lot of campers, it is still early in Crane Season, but I got the last possible spot there. I lucked out. As you turn onto the road into the area, there are a couple of poles on each side of the drive. I cut the corner too short and almost hit the side of the camper. I had to back up (into the main road) and try to make a run at it again. This nice guy jumps out of his car to spot for me and I see his t-shirt says 7^th St Entry. Any Twin Citian knows that that is the basement venue of infamous First Avenue, gig space for anybody that is anybody. I yell at him “First Avenue” and we had a small bonding moment.

As I said, there are several thousand cranes wintering there now. They spend the night and leave around sunrise to go get breakfast. They come back around four in the afternoon to spend the night. The cranes tend to come and go en masse. They are also very chatty creatures. I actually got up early in the morning to watch them take off. The vocalization keeps increasing in volume and then a large group will take off. It is like they are doing a traditional long Minnesotan goodbye. Somebody, off in the distance, was shooting off a gun. Every time there was a shot, the cranes instantly became silent for a couple of seconds in unison. I have never seen anything like that.

Some snow geese and ducks join in the fun

Coming In For a landing

And taking off

And two sunsets in one blog post  How lucky are we?

Signs, Sinners and The Bestest of Relatives

 

As I said in a previous post, the reason I was coming to Tucson was to see Cousin Ann. She is a very special person in my life. Ann and my mother grew up together and it is so much fun to hear the stories of the 'old days'. Let's just say that these girls might not have been as prim and proper as they seemed when I was growing up. I would go over to see Ann every day while I was in Tucson. I was not allowed to go into her apartment because of Covid, but she lived on the ground floor with a veranda. Ann sat on one side of the veranda and I sat on the other side properly attired with masks. They also took my temperature every day before I could see her. I think seeing Cousin Ann was the highlight of my Tucson time.

Cousin Ann
she would hate that I put her picture in the blog
but I just think you can see what a strong, sharp woman she is from the picture.  

Cousin Ann recommended this book and loaned me a copy.  It only takes about 15 minutes to read but it is so wonderful, so gentle.  Next time I can get mail, I will be ordering me a copy.  No matter what page you open the book, there are words that you need to hear.

Since I've been to Tucson several times, I was looking for something a little different to do this time. I found the Ignite Sign Museum. I think I was expecting it to be a Neon sign museum, but they had signs of all sorts. The museum is in a large warehouse filled with displays. They also had a large outdoor area where they displayed signs to big too be inside. They had a short little movie about neon and argon where they talked about the history of neon but also about how they get colors which I found interesting.

The Vice Corner

Remember the old Arby signs?
One of the first dates I ever went on was to Arby's with one of these signs.  

Even better than the sign museum was a little religious shrine called El Tiradito or the Wishing Shrine.

Only Shrine in the United States dedicated to a sinner

Here is the sordid story (source: Wikipedia)

But the sins of this 18-year-old ranch hand, who was often seen frequenting Tucson downtown during the 1870s, while he was employed on his father-in-law's sheep ranch, north of the town, were sins of his heart, mind, and his actions with a married woman, who was no less than his own mother-in-law. El Tiradito is a story of the west, a curse, and a love triangle. Juan Oliveras was in love with his mother-in-law. El Tiradito, also known as the Wishing Shrine, is the burial site of the lovesick Oliveras. Juan, his young wife, and his wife's father, all lived on the father-in-law's large sheep ranch. Juan had become infatuated with his mother-in-law, who lived in her husband's large main home in Tucson.

One day Juan went into town to secretly visit his beautiful mother-in-law. That same day, his rancher father-in-law also went into town on business and surprised his wife and son-in-law having sex in the rancher's own bed. After many strong words and accusations, a violent fight ensued. Juan got free and fled out the front door yelling for help. But his enraged ax-wielding father-in-law soon caught up to the young man and began attacking him, hitting him repeatedly with the sharp axe blade until Juan died in a large pool of his own blood in the dirt street. The blood-spattered father-in-law fled, and, knowing he would hang for the murder if he was caught, saddled up his best horse and quickly made his escape in a 60-mile ride down to Sonora Mexico before the Tucson Marshals could arrest him.

The rancher's wife was so despondent that she committed suicide. She was found hanging from her balcony that night by a passing freight wagon. The murderer made it to Sonora México, but within days he attempted to return to his Tucson area ranch to herd his animals down to Sonora. Riding his horse on the trail north, up to Tucson, near Tubac he was attacked by a band of Apache Indian raiders. They scalped him, stabbed him, shot him repeatedly, took his guns, took his horse, took his clothes, and tied him naked to a large saguaro cactus along the Nogales to Tucson wagon trail, to die. By morning the southbound stagecoach going from Tucson down to Nogales came upon the gruesome sight of the barely recognizable dead man. His body was cut down from the giant saguaro cactus, wrapped up in a canvass tarp, and lashed down on the back freight area of the stagecoach, which continued on its scheduled run down to Nogales, Sonora, where the body was buried.

Despite pleas to the Tucson Catholic Church officials from some of the barrio's residents, the Catholic Church refused Juan Oliveras burial on church-sanctioned or owned cemeteries due to the adulterous nature of the young man's sins with the married woman while he himself was also already married to another woman. Instead, Juan was buried on the exact spot where his body was thrown by his enraged father-in-law after he had hacked him to death with the axe. That act gave the present site its name, El Tiradito, ('The Little Throwaway'... 'The Castaway.')

Soon, the weight of the multiple tragedies of the deaths of both of her parents and her spouse, as well as the betrayal by her husband and mother drove Juan's own young widow to desperation and beyond. Pregnant with Juan's child, and now living mostly alone on the nearly abandoned ranch north of Tucson, that had belonged to her dead parents; she untied the bucket from the rope going down into the ranch's deep water well. The beautiful widow tied the rope snugly around her neck, climbed onto the large rocks surrounding the well, and jumped down into it, snapping her neck instantly. Neighboring ranchers found her limp body almost a week later when they visited the ranch to ask her if she wanted any help to move into Tucson. Her body was buried right there on the ranch next to a large old mesquite tree that remains to this day.

The 'Curse of The Wishing Shrine' centers predominately on its visitors' motives for their visit, and their own lives. It is said that if one visits with a clear open heart that forgives, they will pass, and they may even get their wish fulfilled. For others, it may just be the beginning of history repeating itself, depending on what they themselves bring to the shrine. Also, it is said that if you light a candle at the shrine and it remains burning all night long without going out by sunrise, your wish may be granted, depending on your motivations.[2]

My birthday occurred during the week I spent in Tucson. I decided that, as a birthday present to myself, I would get my RV washed and waxed. I had been trying to do it a little section at a time, but it was going so slow and it was so tedious. So I splurged and it was wonderful. After all the dust storms I had been thru, plus the northern bugs that I had to drive thru to get south, the camper really needed it. When they came to do an estimate, I asked them if they would wash and wax my truck also. No problem. Then I told them it was my birthday and did he have a birthday discount. He did!!! I don't think he really did, but I kept bringing it up so I think he finally gave in just to keep me quiet.

Angel doing his magic - yes, his name was actually Angel

Aren't they pretty?

Movin' On Down

 

On my way south to try to be warm, I stopped at Picacho Peak State Park. I was here about five years ago when I was first starting out traveling in an RV. I remember being so thrilled to be on the road and so ecstatic with everything I was seeing. I FaceTimed with my granddaughter who was only five at the time and ran around showing her the scenery – the mountain, the cactus. I was beside myself with joy. I am a little bit more jaded now, perhaps a bit more introspective. That doesn't mean that I don't think this lifestyle is special, but perhaps the newness, the 'whats over the next hill' is not quite as strong as it was then. I think I sort of miss that 'joie de vivre'. On the other hand, I do not miss that frantic stage that newbie Rvers go thru where they are rushing around and trying to see the whole world in a week.

I had stopped at Picacho because I wanted hookups after boondocking for ten days in Sedona. Of course Picacho Peak had a problem with their water and had shut it down so all that was available was electricity which I really didn't need. That is ok, Picacho is a lovely little park where you can sit outside and contemplate the Peak itself.

As I said - nice campground

Jogger and me having a dinner conversation

I was heading to Tucson to visit my favorite second cousin. Cousin Ann is 95, in assisted living and sharp as a tack. I decided that I would stay at (horrors) an RV park that was only ten minutes away from her when I found that somebody had canceled their reservation at Catalina State Park. I was able to get two days there and it was lovely. There are five mountain ranges that surround Tucson and I think, without a doubt, the Santa Catalina Mountains are the prettiest and most impressive of them all.

View out the back window of my camper

One of the trails next to the campground - look....no rocks on the trail

Yes, that is snow on the mountain - I arrive, it snows

These Saguaro Cactus are ancient. 
They say it takes one of these guys 70 years to grow just one arm.  Imagine how old this guy is.

My kind of cactus - there is not a single spine on it. 
I touched it and it didn't try to kill me unlike other cactus encounters I've had.  

I Think It Is More Orange But What Do I Know?

 

You can't go to Sedona without doing some hiking. You need to get up close to all those red rocks, maybe even experience a vortex or two. A vortexes are “thought to be swirling centers of energy that are conducive to healing, meditation and self-exploration. These are places where the earth seems especially alive with energy. “ Besides the Red Rocks, Sedona is known for it's vortexes.

I picked the Fay Canyon hike, mostly because it said that it was quite a shady walk. This Arizona sun can be brutal. It was a lovely trail, flat, sandy through the canyon. At the very end of the trail, there was a rock climb which Miko and I attempted. Believe it or not, it started to rain so we didn't get very far. That is our excuse and we are stickin' by it.

Fay Canyon starts over behind those trees

This is where it ends

Fay Canyon was the only 'Sedona' hike I did. Right outside of Sedona is the Red Rock State Park. Red Rock State Park has the red rocks of Sedona but not the crowds. I started off doing the Eagle's Nest Loop and as usual, got turned around. By the time I got back to the Visitor's Center, I had also done the Coyote Ridge Trail and the Apache Fire Loop. Oh well. The scenery was lovely and the hiking was interesting in that it was varied. Up, down, flat, trees, way up high views.

Don't know what type of tree this is, but the bark is way cool

I also hiked at Red Rock Crossing. I've only been in desert type environment for a little bit, but when I saw Oak Creek and water actually flowing, I can't tell you how exciting it was. This hike followed the creek thru the woods. If I had to make an official statement right at this moment(subject to change at any minute, of course), I guess I would say that expansive desert mountain views are beautiful and full of Wow factor, but I much prefer water and trees. Must be my Minnesota upbringing.

Peace And Tranquility For All

 

I made it to Sedona, the land of Red Rocks and Tourists. Sedona has changed a bit since the last time I was here about four or five years ago. Way more people, way more dust. Maybe my memories are tainted by time which always seems to highlight the good and soften the not-so-good memories.

The most popular place to boondock is down Forest Road 525, but that has tuned into a zoo. People are all crammed together in little cul-de-sacs, driving the road will shake every single bone in your body and let's not even mention the dust. Luckily for me, I had a friend (Thanks, Jon) who told me of another place for me to park the camper. The only problem with this spot is that there is a big hill filled with rocks that you have to climb to get to the good spots. I had to put the truck into 4-wheel drive to make it up the hill. I was the object of much admiration and amazement due to the fact that I got my 35 foot camper up that hill. Most of the other people up there were living in vans or cars. I had really great views, on the east side were the Red Rocks of Sedona and on the west side was a mountain range where I could see the funky town of Jerome nestled on the mountainside. I loved this place, it was quiet, the neighbors were pretty zen and every morning the hot air balloons would float over our heads. They were so low over us that you could hear the people in the balloons talking. I very seldom got to see the balloons because they would come around sunrise (I'm definitely not a morning person), but one day one of my neighbors starting yelling at me thru the window, telling me I had to get out because there were six of them floating right over head. I think he was tired of me missing them every day. I found, during my ten days in Sedona, I seemed to spend a lot of time sitting in a lawn chair thinking about Nothing or No-thing.

View to the East

View to the West

Me and a Neighbor

I did get out and about a few times though. In Sedona, there is a Stupa. A Stupa is a dome-shaped structure erected as a Buddhist Shrine. A lot of times they contain the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns, but I think this one was just filled with sheets of paper containing prayers. Buddhist tradition teaches that great benefit and auspicious blessings come from:

• walking clockwise around the Stupa at least three times while making personal wishes and prayers for the welfare of suffering beings and world situations

• dedicating the virtue of those prayers for the greater benefit of all

I decided to visit the Stupa on Election Day. As I made my way around the Stupa, I thought that we needed, now more than ever, prayers for America and the world we are now living in. I actually found a lot of peace walking around the Stupa and the surrounding Peace Garden.

The Stupa

Prayer Wheels

You have to end with a sunset

Standing On The Corner

 

After an one night stop in Bluff, Utah on the way to warmer temperatures – I crossed into northeastern Arizona and started across Navajo Nation land. The Navajo Nation has a few settlements, but they are few and far between and seemed to be pretty sparsely settled. The winds started coming up until they were about 35+ miles per hour and they were either hitting me head on or broadside from the west. Needless to say, my gas mileage was going down, down, down. I had started out with a full tank of gas and that was supposed to last me until I got to my destination. I stopped at several gas stations, but they were closed. I was down to a fuel range of about fifty miles. At the third gas station, I asked a Native why the gas stations were all closed. The Navajo Nation was on lockdown. Everything was shut down. He suggested that I go back about 100 miles to ShipRock for gas. Yeah, that wasn't going to work. Fortunately I found a gas station just a little further down the road. Let me tell you, the stress level was killing me. Then the winds picked up even more creating a huge dust storm. You could barely see the car in front of you.

It actually got worse than this picture

I ended up at Homolovi State Park which is just a few miles away from Winslow. I had stayed here about five years ago – I wanted to have electricity so I could run a space heater along with my camper's heater. Even though they all advertise how well insulated these campers are, I am here to tell you that they aren't . It gets pretty chilly. I also wanted to see Hopi (Hope-ee) ruins which were built during the 13^th century. The brochure says that there were an estimated 1,200-2,000 rooms built here. I have to say I was rather disappointed. It was mostly just a few piles of rocks. I guess I was expecting a little bit more.

Oh well, I found some other rather amazing things to do in this part of Arizona. I actually got to Stand On The Corner in Winslow Arizona. Time for a small commercial break:

Well, I'm standing on a corner

In Winslow Arizona

And such a fine sight to see

It's a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford

Slowin' down to take a look at me

      Credit to Jackson Browne and the Eagles

The corner complete with flat bed truck

I'm standing with Carmella - her mom was taking the picture and she wanted to be in it

Carmella, Me and the Other Guy

Winslow Arizona seems to be a really sleepy little town. It is one of those towns that is on Route 66 (also known as The Mother Road) and then the freeway came along and bypassed it. Back in the day though, it was something. There is one of the grandest railroad hotels in the town. La Posada was the one of Fred Harvey's creations. Fred Harvey developed and ran all of the hotels and restaurants for the Santa Fe Railway. He thought that travelers should be able to have a good bed and a fine meal (complete with linen, silverware, china, crystal and impeccable service) during their journey. He was so famous for this that MGM made a movie called The Harvey Girls starring Judy Garland. La Posada fell on hard times, it ceased being a hotel in 1957 and was set to be demolished in 1994. Luckily, it was bought and has been quite nicely restored. Walking around inside is almost like being in a museum.  The attention to detail and the quality of the furnishings was top-notch.  Every public space had original art on the walls.  The rooms are all named for people who have stayed there – Frank Sinatra, Jimmy Stewart, Howard Hughes, Harry Truman, Albert Einstein etc.

The Turquoise Room - the placemats were really unique

No visit to Winslow would be complete without a visit to the world's smallest church, also called the Church of the Mother Road.  I found it by chance in an little alley like alcove.  

BTW - it snowed! In Arizona!  Not too happy with that as my personal directive is to avoid all snow on this particular trip.