We rolled into Natchez, Mississippi – rather we rolled into
Vidalia, Louisiana to a sweet little RV park that was right on the
Mighty Mississippi, right across the bridge from Natchez. We could
watch the barges going up and down the river and at night we could
see the lights of Natchez. There was a waterfront walkway that went
for a mile and a half where Miko could stretch her legs. We stayed
for four nights, it was so nice. The title of this posting is actually the city slogan for Natchez.
Natchez is all about the big houses in town that the plantation
owners built for their families. There was an interesting
juxtaposition between these grand houses that lay dotted all around
Natchez and their next door neighbors whose houses were run down,
needing paint and sometimes doors and windows. Before we did
anything else, we, of course, had to head over to the National Park
Service to the Natchez National Historical Park. This Historical
Park consisted of three different sites, but we decided to just tour
the 'Big House' Melrose. Melrose was first occupied in 1849 and it
represents one of the most completely preserved antebellum estates in
Natchez with many original furnishings and outbuildings.
Davey asked Ranger Barney, a tall black man, how he felt about being
a black man working at an estate that was built on the backs of slave
labor. Ranger Barney stood up and very emphatically told us. He was
wonderful, aggressive and direct and had so many quotable lines that
I wish I could remember them all. To paraphrase: 'You can't change
history, history is truth'. 'They weren't servants, they were
slaves'. 'You can't embarrass ignorance' and so on. When the
conversation turned to fixing ignorance, Davey closed the discussion
with 'Duct Tape will fix ignorance' as he pantomimed putting duct
tape across his mouth. What a card that Davey is.
We were looking for some lunch and ended up at King's Tavern, highly
recommended. King's Tavern is located in the basement of the oldest
house in Natchez and the food was super. Highlights were a crawfish
pot pie and a crawfish corn chowder.
We toured a mansion called Longwood which was really unique and is on
the National Register of Historic Places. It was built by a cotton
planter named Haller Nutt and it eventually became known as Nutt's
Folly. It is an octagonal mansion that was started before the civil
war but only the basement was completely finished before the owner
lost all his money and died. His widow and eight children lived in
the basement for many years after that. We could not tour the
basement because a water pipe had broken with all the cold weather
they have been having and it flooded the basement. We ended up
looking in the windows at all the fancy furnishings. We did get to
tour the unfinished upper floor and it was amazing, the artistic
vision this man had. It is too bad it wasn't finished, it would have
been a sight to see.
Longwood |
Side Note: In 2010, Longwood was used in the HBO series 'True Blood'
for the external shots of the mansion of Russell Edgington, the
Vampire King of Mississippi and Louisiana.
On the tour of Longwood, with us, were a couple of African-American
women. They would correct the docent when she would talk about the
servants of the house and say 'You mean slaves?' After they left,
the docent came up to me and asked me if I felt she had offended
these women. I was able to channel Ranger Barney from the day before
and get into a discussion about how history should be presented.
Ranger Barney would have been so proud of me.
The one touristy thing that I think I enjoyed most about Natchez was
in a Presbyterian Church. It was an exhibit of historical
photographs from the 1850s up to about 1910 which provided an insight
into Natchez life during this period. There were two room that I
found fascinating. The first room was filled with portraits of all
the fancy ladies in town with their very fancy dresses. Besides the
photographs themselves, what made this room so interesting were the
captions. 'Although Miss Peale is shown with a very shy expression,
the folds of her dress are filled with exuberance.' I loved seeing
the fashion through the ages and am so very glad that nowadays, I can
wear my denim. The other room that I liked very much was filled with portraits
of Victorian children. Very cute kids with very extravagant outfits.
The rest of the exhibit was filled with buildings and day-to-day
life in Natchez, while interesting, did not engage me like the women and kids.
The ladies of Natchez - sorry for the glare |
St Mary's Basilica - I always seem to take pictures of Jesus hangin' a bit to the left - wonder why that is? |
Visited a park that commemorated fallen Confederate soldiers |
We did eat at Cotton Alley Cafe which was filled with Pier I type of
furnishings, but my food was excellent. I had Jambalaya and it was
such a huge portion, it lasted me several meals.
And last but not least - I really have issues with heights and Dave was nice enough to get up on my roof and clean it - first time in four years.
Yay Dave!!!! |
Beautiful photos! The crawfish pie...ooh, I want some of that!
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